Pontiac Body Kits

What is the difference between cork and paper composite motorcycle clutch friction disks? I own a 2006 Suzuki C90T (VL 1500). The clutch lever is almost full out when the clutch is fully engaging. It's a hydraulic clutch system so I believe I need to replace the friction disks. I have a choice between an EBC cork/aluminum kit and a Vesrha paper composite kit. What I need to know is what is the difference is between the two? Which will last longer? I sure as heck don't want to have to replace the clutches every two years. Barnett also makes a kit for my bike, but I don't know what they use as a medium for their disks. Has anyone had any experience with any of these clutch disks?

motorcycle rear tire out of alignment symptoms? i installed a 520 kit on my motorcycle and it just doesn't feel right when i ride around. the bike rides straight but feels like there is drag when i pull in the clutch. could it be the 520 kit playing games with my head or....? the 520 kit consists of new chain and sprockets. rear disc brake dragging sounds like a possibility.

I have a 1996 Honda Shadow 600 motorcycle with about 23,000 miles. My clutch is slipping on high torque? Is there adjustments I can make to some how tighten the grabbing action of the clutch pads or do I need a new clutch? I made sure the clutch cable isn’t to tight. Is there some sort of spring kit I can purchase and install myself?

I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 Liter 4X4 5-speed manual transmission with a clutch pressure problem...Help me!? The clutch in my ranger seems to work fine sometimes but more and more often I have been losing clutch pedal pressure and I have to pump the pedal to regain pressure in order to change gears. I have noticed a fluid leak near the tranny housing but the leak doesnt make any puddles. I had researched it for awhile and predicted that it was the slave cylinder and that the tranny needs to be dropped in order the replace the internal slave cylinder. I ordered a new slave and a new clutch kit. I am decently mechanically inclined but I have never done any transmission or clutch repairs besides motorcycles. Please give me some advice on what I should do. Should I install the parts I ordered? Should I pay the $500 in labor to have a shop install the parts? Should I attempt this repair myself? Should I get the problem diagnosed by a mechanic first? Thanks for the responses!

Why does my motorcycle keep shutting off when I pull the clutch in? I recently had a new jet kit installed, rejetted the bike and a new air filter installed on my gs500. I got it back and when I'm in 4th or 5th gear and I pulled the clutch in and go to nuetral and let the clutch out the bike shuts off, or if I go from 5th to 3rd and the rpms drop below about 3000, as soon as I let the clutch out and give it a little gas the bike shuts off. I starts right back up everytime, but I have to give it gas while I'm starting it.

Replacing a '93 accord clutch.? I have a '93 accord with about 220K miles, and the clutch is on its very last leg, slipping all the time. I plan to fix it myself with a clutch kit from napa or some other part store. I've got a little bit of experience occasionally repairing my cars/motorcycles over the past 7 years or so, but never really did anything that seemed this big. I have a haynes manual, and also checked the online chilton manual. They both make it seem like the clutch part is easy, but that getting the transaxle out seems like the biggest part of the job. Heres the biggest part of my question though. I've found many times over the years that haynes manuals, as well as others, seem to be notorious for adding extra all kinds of extra steps that don't need to be done. For example, this job the repair manual tells me I need to do such things as.... remove both front wheels drain transaxle fluid remove header pipe remove starter and wires remove clutch slave cylinder and other such things. Is all this stuff really necessary? Is it actually this involved just to install a clutch kit? Granted I've never removed a transaxle so I don't know, but man, can't I just swing the thing out of the way enough to put the clutch in, without draining it, taking out the starter, taking off the wheels, taking off the headers (which I believer are about impossibly fused/rusted together), removing the slave cylinder, etc. And how long is a first timer probably looking to spend on this job. I was hoping to have it done in less than a full saturday. Thanks.

Will my motorcycle wheelie? I own a 1985 Yamaha FZ750, completely rebuilt engine and carbs with scorpion exhaust and a stage 3 dynojet kit. coverted into a naked bike with aluminum subframe and streetfighter tail. About 35 pounds of parts have been removed. So I have been trying to wheelie and cannot for the life of me. I have always been able to do them well with dirtbikes and Atv's but just cannot with this bike. It has a good chunk of power and the wheel will pop a couple inches off ground when I really open the throttle but the clutch wheelies I just can't do. When I dump/let off the clutch when creeping about 15mph it'll either bog down or just beeline straight with no wheelie. So is the bike too heavy at about 420lbs dry weight? Is the clutch slipping? Or is it me? I am also changing the sprockets to -1 front/+2 rear hoping that'll help. Thanks

Why does my little kawasaki ninja 250 set off car alarms? stage 3 jet kit k&n pod filters muzzy 2 into 1 performance exhaust. I just dont understand its not that loud. Im not reving it up when it happens. Example i have the clutch pulled in costing into a gas station BEEP BEEP BEEP or i go past a car 30 m.p.h. 6th gear BEEP BEEP BEEP Loud cars-trucks dont set them off so why does my motorcycle? I can hear myself talk. If I had the engine reved any lower it would die out im seriousley putt putt putting! A school bus is louder then this motorcycle when im creeping through town.

My wife is 5'2 and about 120 pounds and we want to buy matching sportsbikes. What's our options? My wife and I recently completed a motorcycle safety course and want to purchase matching sport bikes. She is 5'2 and 120 pds. I'm not to sure what her inseam is. I'm 5 '11 and 220 pds. Whenever we go to the dealership, she sits on the bikes and her feet aren' t close to being flat on the ground. She wants a bike that is 600cc because that is what the gsx-r, yzf-r, and cbr starts off in and that is going to be the type of bike that I get. While taking the motorcycle course we rode on a 150cc standard type bike. We know that the sportsbike is alot different and that 600cc is alot more power and that the throttle and clutch on the sportbike is not as forgiving. What are your suggestions as far as her riding a 600cc sportsbike? Should we try to lower the bike and shave the seat or not get one at all? If the bike is lowered (the proper way with the lowering kit), will the ground clearence be a safety issue? Any other suggestions that you have will be greatly appreciated.

1974 Honda CB360 cannot maintain power when riding? I just recently got my hands on this bike it has been sitting for atleast a year the first things I did were. -Checked the tank for rust (it was clean) had some gas in it but was drained and added new fuel -Checked the spark plugs they looked ok -Took the carb off and cleaned it out, did not get a kit yet just looking for suggestions first. -Checked the Throttle cables they move freely both forward and back. The bike starts up after a few trys with the electronic starter. It idles ok after a little adjustment on the throttle. I can rev it up just fine when it is sitting (no smoke) Once I throw it into first and attempt to take off it will go with about half power or less even at full throttle. At times though, I can get it to ride fine for about 2 minutes then out of nowhere, its as if the engine is getting no gas even though my knuckles are pointed to the sky. Then I have to quickly enage the clutch or it just cuts out and then even sometimes it will just cut out. Then I have to have the throttle half open to start it up again. After starting it sometimes it just won't give any gas with full throttle. I just keep reving the grip and eventually the engine starts to respond. Other than that the engine is not misfiring and yes I understand its a 35 yr old Honda, But I'm not giving up yet. This is my first Motorcycle and I am prepared to put forth the effort to make the ol girl go like she once did before. In honesty I am no motorcycle mechanic however I am capable of performing most repairs myself. The only suggestions I have gotten so far are to replace the rubber pistons on the accelerator pumps on both sides of the carb. Would this solve my problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thank You in advance.

Hard to upshift motorcycle? Ok, so I left my motorcycle on campus for a month in Florida because I went back home for the break. When I left, the motorcycle was completely fine. Then when I got back it would not start. I put 2 gallons of 93 octane fuel, and 6 ounces of NOS octane booster in the engine. It still would not start that day. Then the next day I came back to it it started fine. Then when I was riding it around I noticed that it was really hard to upshift my bike. It is easy to shift into neutral, then down to first, and then up to second. When I try to shift it into 3rd it becomes really hard, no matter what rpms it is at. Then when I upshift it to 4th it is much easier when I have the rpm's above 5-6 rpms a minute. Shifting to 5th and 6th gear is the same shifting from 3rd to 4th. When I downshift it is completly normal. The clutch has about 17,000 miles on it, so is it possible that I need a new clutch kit and then it will be fine? Also will there be any long term damage if I keep on forcing it? Thanks, Ryan It is a 2005 kawasaki zzr When I pull the clutch in, it feels normal, it is just hard when I shift up with my foot.